Bromo and Kawah Ijen independently

There are two ways to approach Bromo:

1. From Pasuruan to Tosari west of Bromo

2. From Probolinggo to Cemoro Lawang east of Bromo

Both at Tosari and at Cemoro Lawang they offer a "sunrise tour" by Toyota 4WD for Rp 350,000 (price fixed by the village cooperative). The tour brings you to Penanjakan summit (2770 m) with a fine view over mt Batok (2440 m), mt Bromo (2392 m) and mt Semeru (3600 m) in the distance - and afterwards to mt Bromo. However, in december the sunrise may be disappointing because of clouds. And avoid Penanjakan summit on weekends and holidays: even on weekdays some jostling is going on for the best spot to make pictures.

I you would renounce on Penanjakan, from Cemoro Lawang on the caldera rim it is a walk of not more than two hours down into and across the sandsea and up the slopes and stairs of mt Bromo. If you are accustomed to trekking no need for a car or a horse. It is also possible to walk from Cemoro Lawang to Penanjakan, but it looked like a very steep ascent to me.

Your problem then is how to get to Cemoro Lawang on the caldera rim by public transport. Regular buses bring you to Probolinggo, from there it should not be difficult to hop on a minibus to Sukapura (9 km from the crater rim) and with luck to Ngadisari (3 km from Cemoro Lawang). The last leg of 3 or 9 km you probably have to try your luck walking and hitchhiking. You'll get there allowing enough time.

The most popular accommodation in Cemoro Lawang is Lava View Lodge (probably Rp 250,000 for a room), but you can find lost of budget accommodation (homestay style) between Ngadisari and Cemoro Lawang. Yoschi's guesthouse should be around Rp 100,000 nowadays - but there are many others, villagers may offer to stay with them for a modest amount.

Re IJEN

The hike to Ijen crater starts at Pos Paltuding. There is only very basic accommodation at Pos Paltuding, probably Rp 100,000. From there everyone has to hike up Ijen volcano (550 m rise, 1 to 1,5 hrs) and if you dare down into the crater (half an hour each way, I found it the highlight of the trip despite the sulphur fumes).

However, no public transport goes as far as Pos Paltuding. The usual stay over for people with a car is at the plantation's Arabika Guesthouse at Sempol, still 13 km from Pos Paltuding.

A regular bus will take you to Bondowoso. My Lonely Planet says that from Bondowoso minibuses run to Sempol, a 2,5 hour ride, but with irregular departure times - leaving when full. And at Sempol you may hire an ojek (riding on the back of a motorbike) to Pos Paltuding and back. Failing that you could try to share with others hiring a jeep from the Arabika Guesthouse - up to five people per jeep.

Again, allow time and you'll get there.